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Migliorate i vostri controller - Joycon Joysticks di Gulikit

Migliorate i vostri controller - Joycon Joysticks di Gulikit

how does he keep doing that are you tired of your switch playing every game like its Initial D just drifting all over the place there's a solution the ghoulie kit joy-con replacement sticks they use hall effect sensors which are like their sensors that detect magnets four screws and a.

Ribbon cable and I can get this installed and that's all that I need now if you've never worked with ghouli kits stuff before I mean they've got a couple of controllers out they've got the King Kong 2 controller for the switch they've got the elves controller which is also for the switch we're going to look at these let's open them up the major.

Upside to a hall effect sensor is that there's no actual parts that are touching each other nothing's wearing away as time goes on your joysticks are going to last a lot longer alright these are small and dark so we can't really see them very well on this Northern Lights desk pad available at lttstore.com only thing left to do now.

Is get them installed all right it's time for us to grab our handy dandy tool kit we're gonna open this thing up and we're gonna put these in here now we've got four screws we've got to take out one two three and four now I haven't done a ton of controller repairs before on newer consoles I've never actually opened up a switch before I've opened up.

The different Dev kits I'm usually the person to do the dev kit videos with a couple of exceptions so we've got our four screws out now so it makes me wonder what the next step is here it keeps trying to pair so I'm just going to start shoving pieces of plastic inside of other pieces of plastic and hope for the best here oh oh and you're.

Starting to open up here a little bit unfortunately this has been de-branded we're gonna have to break through the debranding it looks like oh no see this not sure if you can see that that's what happens when you just lose control oh come on come on there we go and this is what the inside of it looks like so we've got two ribbon.

Cables we've got one right here which is easy enough to get at and we've got what appears to be one underneath the battery okay we're gonna go in from this side and then push this up to take the battery out instead of prying it off now the HD Rumble wire is just getting in the way so I'm going to move that over for a second.

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It works properly all right so the next thing that we need to do is actually get this plastic part here off because if we look at this matching up with the back of this we can see hey let's probably the joystick that's right there so we've got three screws we need to remove we've got one here one over here and one somewhere over by my finger we've got.

This ribbon cable just over here that does connect up to this it does connect up to this shoulder button here so we'll really need to remove that I don't think as long as we are very gentle with it oh hey hey it flipped upwards just like it's supposed to and we should be able to just get underneath it and pull it up oh we did.

It get these two Phillips head screws out okay now we can compare them side by side the color of the ribbon cable is different here they are on the back the blue is the original and the Amber is the ghouie kit okay so actually slipping it in the actual top of the joystick if I can.

Get that in a way that you can see it yeah it doesn't actually fit in perfectly it does kind of pull on that a little bit but you just kind of force it through ever so gently maybe move it back and forth a little bit it'll find its way in there now the hardest part is making this ribbon cable right here go back in its.

Home in hindsight it's a lot easier to start with the ribbon cable and then go from there all right we got ourselves a nice little pair of iFixit tweezers put that little little black tab back down and then get our joystick into place and I really should not be putting the stress on this I really should have you know.

Gone in here and flipped that up and taken this out to put this off to the side earlier I just didn't because I'm lazy oh my God why did I disconnect this this is so difficult there we go take our screws screw this back in there before this can go back on we've now got our joystick screwed in we're going to have to put our oh what button is this I.

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Don't play the switch enough okay it's R it's our right button so this is currently being held in by two tiny plastic tabs there I'm not sure if you can see that that looks about right now there we go that looks about the way that it was when we opened it right sure the battery if I had to take a guess it's going to go with the wires facing.

Upwards and then we can just press it down oh look at that look at that I did it I did the thing back in batteries and it's housing we're going to press it down because there's two-sided tape underneath it but first let me stall to tell you about our sponsor.

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Mismatched left joy-con which does have the original joystick still in it so let's give this a shot immediately I do notice a fair bit of difference the ghouie kit version feels a lot rounder when you go around the outside like you can't feel the different points to it or if you can.

There's only four points I don't know if that's necessarily better I think you could put these side by side and somebody wouldn't necessarily be able to tell unless they knew exactly what they were looking for when they felt it all right let's try it out okay so what I'm seeing here is that it's very much calibrated over to the side I'm not a.

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Big fan of that uh so if I hold it right here it's in center but recalibrate only if there is a problem there is calibrate move it towards the triangle and release it calibration complete oh hey look at that I'm not a huge snob about dead zones typically but I do notice that when we move it just a little bit it does start.

To move that's good enough by me maybe you will have a different experience with it maybe there is some Smash Brothers players out there who really enjoy using joy-cons for whatever reason for their Smash brothering and they notice a dead zone that is extremely make or break for them okay so on the standard joystick I'm still not noticing.

Much of a dead zone so I don't believe there is a huge Dead Zone to begin with the major selling point no drift that's the only difference I'm noticing that's the only difference there really needs to be because at the end of the day so many people have drift problems that the ability to have a joy-con that you know won't drift that's worth a lot.

Here we go now we can do something with this because you can control the camera with it hey look at that we can get it just very slowly moving like that look at that faster slower faster slower yeah yeah this is this is the way of water right now.

Yeah there we go overall I think there's not really much of a difference here The Only Exception is you're not going to get stick drift that's a pretty good selling feature I think if you've dealt with some small ribbon cables before probably not gonna be the hardest thing in the world for you overall difficulty I'd say it's.

Probably about a seven out of ten does cost about 30 US Dollars whereas a joy-con typically costs about 40 US dollars so that ten dollar difference seems worth it to me thanks for watching make sure to subscribe and if you want to see more console mod content let us know down below bye ghoulie kit joy-con joystick.

Is that Ghillie kit why would it be Ghillie kit do you see do you see it wearing one of those suits that Dennis always loves to wear when he's hiding

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Commenti di 7

  1. My boy has gone through three sets of controllers because of the drift. He still has them somewhere in his room. When I get the chance I’m gonna swap out the modules so we can have a 4 player stick fight.😊

  2. I swapped my analog sticks with them and I felt that they not only differ because of driftless and zero-point but also more accurate aiming(maybe it is just placebo). I hear somewhere that original potenciometer analog sticks had 10% error in position, and this one has 1%, so I think it is not placebo.
    But, maybe someone has another thoughts about that, would be glad to hear.

  3. Just wanted to point something out after watching this. He takes off the blue dbrand skin on the left joycon and replaces it with the gulikit joystick and when he was calibrating he said that the left was the original joycon.

  4. One thing to note is that dead zones only exist on potentiometer joysticks to account for them being near-impossible to reliably have zero drift when resting. That’s why hall-effect sensors are great. You calibrate them once, and it’s done. No drift, because no parts (in the mechanism at least) to wear out.

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